I may try again if I find some time - no promises. After further research, this thread included I figured out the issue seemed to be the toggle bit.Īt one point, I reached the maximum memory of the Flirc so I wasn't too thrilled with the idea of programming each button twice and so I never gave that a good try. I eventually figured out that approximately only every other keypress did anything. After matching commands to Flirc, they worked but - not really. The HP and Rosewill remotes designed for WMC (Windows Media Center) both worked the same way. Without going into detail too much detail, it wont be as easy as adjusting for the last extra bit, but will require a good amount of work in my firmware. I don't use a traditional way of 'clocking in ir'. I didn't quite follow if it was broken for you entirely, or if you just needed to do as the thread suggested and record multiple times. I started doing some homework, I'm going to try and get to the bottom of this over the next few weeks. Yes, I agree with you, and I'll make this a priority. I am sticking with Flirc for now and will either use a Sony universal remote or pick up a Harmony remote since it seems those are highly endorsed by the community. I had initially planned to do my remote integration with Arduino and the Ken Shirriff library but the deeper I get I see I don't have enough time for this. Leaving out all remotes designed for Windows MCE seems like a big hole. I think the biggest thing I was reacting to is that the front page of FLIRC makes it very clear in capital letters that ANY remote will work though this is not totally accurate. My home theater components are Panasonic and Sony so it seems I will have good luck if I use some other remote controls. I get your point about the jitter and if I get some time I will re-measure the modulation frequency on my two 'Windows' remotes which are actually HP and Rosewill brand. The DSO Nano waveforms can be captured and analyzed on the PC and I think the Nano just barely does have enough bandwidth to pick up the modulation. These parts are what I used to measure the modulation frequency. I also have a Tek 2235 Analog scope and a DSO Nano and a bare IR Receiver Diode. Just realized I was not complete or detailed enough in my earlier post - sorry! If this truly what you are seeing, how is the performance of your flirc when you have done so? I've often found RC6, regardless, doesn't seem as solid. But overall, I have to play a lot of tricks in order for this RC6 protocol to work which is outside the specified 38kHz center frequency of my receiver.Īll this being said, there are some RC6 protocols which are 38kHz, in which the only problem would be the double presses issue, in which you would need to record your button twice. My algorithm will be fine tuned in the future for this, and eliminate the need for double recording (is that your primary concern?). You can try this experiment by looking at the output and comparing your scope shot next to the IR receiver, and again when emitting a signal from the other side of the room, where the frequency effects would be more exaggerated. However, when passing through the AGC, it could have unpredicted results on the output which will show up as jitter, or worse. If you point your remote at this part, and shoot, you will be able to receive the output on your scope because 56kHz is still within the wide frequency band of the on part filter. The output of this part is a noise free, demodulated signal from the received IR signal. You actually won't be able to tell the modulation frequency with that specific part. I'm using if not the same, but an extremely similar IR receiver you mentioned on sparkfun. Mentioned by everyone, your concerns are extremely valid.
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